Washing and Combing Your Hair
Shampoo and condition your hair as you normally would. Whether you're planning on leaving the flat twists in for a while or you're using them to create some curls, it's best to start with clean hair first. That will help promote healthiness in your hair and scalp.
Run a comb or brush through your hair to detangle it. Work on a small section at a time, maybe 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5.1 cm) across. Using a large-toothed comb or a brush, run it through your hair, starting at the bottom and working your way up. If your hair is tightly coiled, wait until you put conditioner on your hair to comb it out. It'll be much easier to comb out your tangles this way. If you get the tangles at the bottom out first, you won't put as much pressure on your scalp.
Apply a moisturizer to your hair. This step is especially important if you plan to leave the flat twists in for a while, as the moisturizer will help hydrate your hair while you have your twists in. An ideal moisturizer is castor oil, but you can use any moisturizer that works well for your hair. Get the moisturizer on your hands, and then massage it into your hair, smoothing down your hair as you go. Try looking for a moisturizer that's free from sulfates and drying alcohols, which can damage your hair. Try a deep conditioner or a moisturizing mask. You can use a product that's meant to be left in; however, always read the instructions. If needs to be rinsed out, rinse it out. For a twist out, meaning you are doing flat twists to create curls, try a cream-based product for softer curls or a twisting gel if you want your curls more defined. Some products have both.
Brush or comb out your hair completely again. Your hair should be completely detangled, so even though you brushed it before washing, you should do it again. At this point, it should be fairly easy, so run a brush over your head to pull out any tangles you have left. Try using a detangling product if you need to. While you can use any comb or brush, you might want to try a denman brush if you have curly or textured hair. It can help you detangle and style your hair more easily.
Work the flat twists into your hair while it is still damp to produce curls. If your goal is to do a twist out, then working with damp hair is ideal. Doing so will help control flyaways, as well as to help set the curl in the hair.
Braiding Your Hair into Flat Twists
Part your hair into sections using a rat-tail comb. You can divide your hair into however many sections you'd like, from 2 up to 8 or more. The simplest method is to draw a line from the front of your scalp to the back using the sharp tail of the comb. Then, use your hands to separate the hair all along the part. It helps to clip or tie up each section as you go. You can also just work a section at a time if you prefer. If you're wearing your flat twists as a style, you can also part your hair with curved lines or zigzags for extra pizzazz. Whatever you do, remember the parts will be visible once the flat twists are done. However, it's best to use straight parts if you're using flat twists to create curls.
Divide the top of one part into 2 sections. Pick one part to start with. Comb out the section and smooth out the top area. Grab the first 1 inch (2.5 cm) or so of hair and divide it into 2 sections. You'll use these 2 sections to start your flat twist.
Twist the right section of hair over the left section of hair. Hold a section of hair in each hand. Move the section in your right hand over the section in your left hand, switching the hair sections to the opposite hands as you do. This process is fairly easy, so don't overthink it. You're just moving one section over the other. As you move along, you can add twist gel to your hair to help keep it in place. Just get a little on your fingers and let it naturally work itself into your hair.
Add hair to the right section with your left index finger and twist the sections. Use your left index finger to scoop out a section of hair from your head and into the hair in your right hand. Then, move all the hair in your right hand over the left section, switching the hair to opposite hands again. This action adds more hair to the twist and attaches the twist to your head, like doing a cornrow or a French braid. As you move down your head, make sure you're adding all the hair from that section into the twist.
Comb through the section as you move down your head. The hair below where you're twisting may tangle as you twist the top. Therefore, make sure you're running a comb or brush through it from time to time, as tangle-free hair is key to this look.
Continue adding and twisting hair until you have no more hair to add. At the base of the scalp, you should have added all the hair in that section to your flat twist. At this point, you won't be incorporating more hair into the braid; instead, you'll just be twisting. You can also just secure it here if you prefer. Use a clip or hair tie to secure it here if you'd like. If you do this, the rest of the hair will hang down loose from the clip.
Twist the hair over itself until you reach the end of the hair. At this point, you're just going to wrap the hair around itself in 2 strands like a 2-strand twist. Keep going all the way to the very end, wrapping it around itself. Typically, with natural hair, it will just stay in place. If your hair needs help staying in place, add a small clip, hair tie, or even just a bit of twist gel to the end.
Braid the other sections of your hair. Repeat the process across the rest of your head, twisting each section one at a time. Make sure each section is secured before moving on to the next one. You can leave this style in for up to 2 weeks, though it likely won't stay as tight and neat as cornrows do. Make sure to protect your hair at night by wrapping it in a silk scarf or bonnet. You can also use a silk pillowcase.
Getting the Perfect Twist Out
Make sure your hair is perfectly dry before taking it down. Air drying is ideal, but you may not always have time for that. If you don't, you can use a blow dryer to help dry out your twists as much as you possibly can. If you don't, your curls won't set properly, and you'll end up with frizziness. Hold the blow dryer at least 6 inches (15 cm) from your hair and face the blow dryer down. Move down your twists with the dryer. A hooded dryer works best, but it's fine if you don't have one at home!
Allow your hair to cool for at least 30 minutes. Not only will this help set your hair, but it will also help you ensure your hair is completely dry by the time you're finished. When you're hair is room temperature, you'll notice damp sections more quickly, as they'll feel cool to the touch and cool on your head. If there are still damp sections, use the hair dryer again. Be patient! You want those beautiful twist-curls to be perfect.
Wrap your head in a silk scarf or hat if you're leaving twists in overnight. Using twists is a great way to get perfect curls overnight, but you need to protect your hair, too. Wrapping your hair up in silk helps protect your work and keeps flyaways at bay, too. You can also use a silk pillowcase.
Untwist the hair gently. When you're ready for your twist out, take any clips out of the end. Use your fingers to untwist each section; don't just yank at your hair! If any ends seem frizzy, twist them around your finger for a moment to help with the issue. This style can last more than a day, but it's best if you twist it up again each night. If you'd like to, use a wide-tooth comb or hair pick to fluff up the roots a little. Lift your hair, and insert the comb underneath. Pull it out just a little way through the hair to tease it, then take the comb out without running it through the rest of your hair. Do the same thing on the roots all over your head.
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