Onam, the vibrant harvest festival of Kerala, is a celebration that brings together people, traditions, and flavors in a grand feast known as the Onam Sadhya. This elaborate meal, served on a banana leaf, has evolved over the years from a simple array of dishes to a culinary spectacle featuring up to 30 or more items.
“The Sadhya, initially a simple meal with around ten dishes, has grown over the years to include 24, 30, or even more items. There’s even a kind of friendly competition to see how many dishes one can fit on the leaf,” explains Chef Arun Kumar T.R, who has recently authored a book, Feast on a Leaf on the history, rituals and folklore of Onam with a focus on the sadhya as celebrated by generations of his family.
While the essence of Onam lies in giving thanks for the bountiful harvest, “the Sadhya represents a deeper connection to Kerala’s cultural and spiritual roots,” believes the Chef.
Onam is a harvest festival, a time when people rejoice and give thanks to the gods. For those unfamiliar, Sadhya isn’t limited to Onam alone. This grand meal is also a staple at weddings, birthdays, and other significant occasions in Kerala, embodying the region’s rich culinary heritage.
The inspiration behind Chef Arun’s book on Onam Sadhya was deeply personal. After spending over a decade in the culinary world, he felt a calling to document a tradition that had been a significant part of his childhood in Kerala. “People often asked when I would write a book, and I realized that while there are plenty of recipes out there, few focus exclusively on the Sadhya. I wanted to capture not just the recipes but the stories and the essence of this tradition, something that harked back to my own roots.”
Steeped In Tradition
One of the most fascinating aspects of Onam Sadhya is its deep cultural significance. The tradition has always been tied to the story of Mahabali, a benevolent king whose reign was marked by prosperity and happiness in Kerala. The legend says that Mahabali returns to Kerala during Onam to see if his people are still content. Over time, this legend has been embraced by all communities in Kerala, making Onam a state festival celebrated by everyone, regardless of religion. “While the festival originally centered around worshiping Vishnu, the left government in the 1960s shifted the focus to Mahabali. This move helped make Onam a celebration for all, not just a religious observance,” notes the Chef.
Evolution of Sadhya
The Sadhya, while deeply traditional, has seen some evolution over the years. “Traditionally, dishes like Olan, Kalan, and Pulissery are must-haves, while others like Aviyal and Sambar were introduced later,” the Chef explains. “Today, you might even see modern additions like avocado in a fusion Sadhya. But no matter how much it evolves, the essence of the Sadhya remains the same—a celebration of the harvest and a nod to our cultural heritage.”
Preparing a Sadhya can be a daunting task, given the sheer variety of dishes involved. However, the chef emphasizes the importance of simplicity in his approach. “I’ve been cooking Sadhya for years, so it’s second nature to me. But when writing the book, I wanted to ensure the recipes were accessible and not overly complicated. My goal was to make it easy for anyone to prepare these dishes at home, whether they’re cooking for two people or six.”
First Timers Take Note
For those attempting their first Onam Sadhya at home, the chef offers some practical advice. “Keep it simple. Start with a few key dishes, and don’t overwhelm yourself by trying to recreate an entire Sadhya on your first attempt. Use a banana leaf, focus on traditional accompaniments, and most importantly, enjoy the process. After all, Sadhya is as much about the experience as it is about the food.”
Writing a book on such a cherished tradition was no small feat. The Chef reflects on the discipline and research required to bring his vision to life. “I spent a lot of time in Kerala, talking to people, gathering stories, and of course, tasting the dishes. The writing process itself was about discipline—setting aside time every day, working closely with my editor, and eventually moving through the more mechanical stages of proofreading and layout. It was a learning experience, but one that I’m incredibly proud of.”
In capturing the spirit of Onam Sadhya, the chef’s book not only provides a collection of recipes but also a window into the rich cultural tapestry of Kerala. It serves as a reminder that while traditions may evolve, their essence remains timeless, connecting us to our roots and to each other.
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