High on food

KOCHI: The car hesitates near the Government Ayurveda College at Tripunithura before it stops for directions. “Mullapanthal! Which way?” and a man points to the right. While the car purrs its way down the road, it is difficult to forget the man’s impish smile and the ‘I-know-what-you-are-doing-this-summer’ look. As the car squeezes itself into a space at the destination, to say Mullapanthal is a ‘colorful’ haunt would be befitting. Bright shades of pink, yellow and green jump off walls and the loud colour code is the shack’s signature. Amidst the vibrant riot, a black and white sign stands tall - kallu. As one steps over the threshold into the notoriously famous Mullapanthal shaapu, the faint smell of jasmine plays the perfect host.Inside, bottles of toddy sit pretty on tables painted in all colours imaginable. Left hands caress glassfuls of the tappers’ bounty. On the right, platefuls of the choicest meat let tastebuds run amok. And as friendly waiters reel off the a la carte food menu, one can simply revel in being spoilt for choice.Karimmen Pollichathu (fish clothed in spices and cooked in plantain leaf) is indeed a ‘prize catch’ at ` 150 and the signature shaapu preparation leaves nothing to imagination. Karimeen fry, priced between ` 80 and 200 and cooked to perfection is a seafood lover’s manna. The combination of karimeen curry and kappa (baked tapioca) scores a perfect five on five. And when the waiter lands platter fulls of prawns ularthiyathu (` 100 ONLY!), one is bound to be a Mullapanthal fan for life!When the meat arrives, it does so in style. While beef and pork live up to their reputation of being perfect ‘touchings’, tender rabbit meat, wrapped in pepper and spices, is bliss every mouthful. At Rs 100 per plate, the rabbit delicacy is a must-eat as it is not often available in restaurants. Duck, crab and quail roast make for a spicy affair too. Only appam, puttu and chapathi are served and rice is strictly off the menu.Unabashed by the display of gluttony, we mowed through platefuls of meat and struck conversation with Paul and Alice from Texas, USA at the adjacent table. In between mouthfuls of toddy, Paul narrates, “I am sipping toddy after 30 years and it never tasted this good. The rabbit meat had me at the first bite and I couldn’t wait for the word go before I tucked into the fish.” Alice adds, “I had only heard about the place from family and seen pictures. I knew I had to come here the next time we visited India and guess what, we’ll be coming back for more,” and she reaches for the next helping of kappa.Mullapanthal shaapu is a toddy shop with a difference, and an attitude. For starters, it has a name unlike other toddy shops. It is the only toddy shop with its own website and has over a thousand reviews to its ‘name’. Further, it couldn’t care less about the ramshackle shack and the paint-peeled chairs that put off guests initially because it lets its food and toddy do the talking. And when the bill does not require guests to loosen their purse strings much, one can only soak in the good ‘spirits’. Also, women can leave their inhibitions behind when they step into Mullapanthal as private cubicles make dining here a family experience. A sneak peak of the kitchen (a privilege extended to special guests) reveals five wonder-women and their recipes for a lip-smacking affair. While hot oil gurgles over meat in a uruli, placed over a traditional firewood stove, natural spices are sprinkled generously, and one sees the making of a kingly dish. “Food engane undaayirunnu?”, the question brings one down to earth and the reply says it all, “Adipoli!” After the brief stop, the journey hits the foodie’s highway to paradise again! — By Rosanna Abrachan