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Leave it to Marc Jacobs to find another way to shake things up a bit at New York Fashion Week. In his traditional Thursday afternoon slot closing out the week, he presented a runway show in utter silence, letting the clothes do the talking in the most literal sense.
About 320 guests were ushered into the Park Avenue Armory, where Jacobs often shows; this time, though, there was no decor, simply two rows of folding chairs facing each other. At precisely the start time of 2 p.m., models started walking between the folding chairs. When they were done, Jacobs, clad all in black, took a quick lap through the room, past guests like Katy Perry, director Sofia Coppola, Lil' Kim, and "Girls" actress Zosia Mamet.
As for the clothes, they were an ode to the hip-hop era, inspired by a documentary called "Hip-Hop Evolution" that he watched a few months ago, Jacobs explained.
"As a born and bred New Yorker, it was during my time at the High School of Art and Design when I began to see and feel the influence of hip-hop on other music as well as art and style," Jacobs wrote in show notes, adding that the collection was "my representation of the well-studied dressing up of casual sportswear" as well as his "respect for the polish and consideration applied to fashion from a generation that will forever be the foundation of youth culture street style."
The clothes were almost all in neutral shades of camel and brown, with some sparkly gold sprinkled in liberally, and the occasional splash of bright red.
There were lots of coats and jackets - in plaid or in fur, or shearling-lined corduroy. They often came over miniskirts or track suits. Many models wore exaggerated bowler or bobby hats by master milliner Stephen Jones, inspired by the style of hip hop artist Andre 3000. Chunky platform shoes or boots were accompanied by a wide variety of casual handbags in different sizes and types of leather.
As for jewelry, there were chunky gold chains bearing "mice pendants." One model wore a large, sparkling key earring.
Kendall Jenner wore a maroon trouser suit with an oversized jacket, a gray sweater, and a large gray woolen hat.
After the show ended, the models gathered outside - this time, music was allowed, and huge speakers were set up on Park Avenue - and posed for photographers as onlookers gaped across the barriers.
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