Choosing a Tank and Accessories
Pick a sizable tank for your betta. You may see betta fish housed in tiny plastic bowls in stores, but bettas actually need more space to thrive. For a happy, healthy, and stress free betta, choose a glass or clear acrylic tank that holds at least 2.5 gallons (9.5 L) of water, but 5 gallons or larger is highly recommended. Bettas can jump, so make sure the tank has a lid. A tank this size will give the betta plenty of room to swim, the water won't become contaminated as quickly as it would in a smaller tank, it can be heated safely, and the aquarium nitrogen cycle can be established. Any tank smaller than 2.5 gallons (9.5 L) is not suitable, even if it is only ½ gallon less. Bettas cannot live with other bettas. The idea of a female betta "sorority" has appeared on social media, but it is considered unethical and unnatural for your fish. Though it has been done, "sororities" should only be attempted by experienced owners. Your best bet is to house each betta separately, so you'll need a tank for each betta you want to own. This will provide your pet with a stress-free life.
Provide a gentle filter. Bettas naturally live in large bodies of water with a gentle current. Their long, flowing fins make it difficult for them to fight stronger currents, so it's important to choose a filter that is labeled "gentle" or comes with adjustable settings. Choose a filter that is designed to fit with the tank size and type of you have chosen. If you have a stronger filter, it is possible to create current buffers using plants or a cut water bottle. A filter is necessary for bettas (and all aquarium fish) because they are essential for the nitrogen cycle to keep toxins from building up in the water.
Get a water heater to regulate the tank temperature. Bettas are a tropical species of fish, and they do best in water that stays between 78 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. To be safe, get a thermometer to make sure the water is the correct temperature. If you have chosen to use a tank smaller than five gallons, it can be risky to use a water heater, as the tank can overheat. This is another good reason to get a sizable tank for your betta fish.
Purchase substrate to line the bottom. It is an important part of the tank environment. Along with housing some beneficial bacteria, it creates a more naturalistic environment for your fish and is pleasing to your eyes. Choose fine gravel or sand rather than gravel made with larger pieces of rock. Food and waste can get caught among the larger rocks and create more ammonia. If you are using live plants in your tank, you will need two inches of substrate so the plants can root. If you are using fake plants (silk plants are often recommended over plastic, due to their softer edges) , one inch is sufficient. Choose substrate in natural colors like white, black, and brown to line your tank. Bright neon substrate like pink and orange will make the environment feel less natural your betta.
Get plants and other decorations. Live plants help provide oxygen, remove nitrates, and provide a natural environment for your betta. Decorations are essential because they provide enrichment and hiding spots for your fish. If you want to include live plants, choose plants that grow well in the conditions of the tank, taking the light strength, temperature and substrate type into account. Remember that the gravel should be at least two inches deep to support live plants. Using real plants creates a more natural micro-ecosystem in the tank, with the plants filtering out waste for fertilizer and adding oxygen to the water as they "breathe". Anubias nana, java fern, and marimo balls are good beginner plants because they do not require fertilizer or carbon dioxide and do not need very much light. If you want to use fake plants, most people will recommend that they're silk and do not have sharp edges. Bettas' long, fragile fins can be injured when they swim near the plants. Choose other decorations to keep your betta happy. Structures that allow them to hide, such as caves or tunnels, are excellent choices for ensuring that your fish feels safe and secure in its home. Be sure that the decorations you choose do not have ANY sharp edges or rough surfaces that could snag your betta's fins. Use fine grit sandpaper or an emery board to smooth down troublesome spots.
Setting Up the Tank
Place the betta tank in a secure part of your home. Choose a spot that is near a window, but not exposed to direct sunlight. Be sure to set the tank on a very sturdy surface so that it isn't likely to topple. Finally, if you have other pets, you may want to consider placing the betta in a room they don't have access to. You may want to get an aquarium stand designed to hold the weight of the tank you have chosen. Allow five inches between the aquarium and the wall to accommodate the filter and heater.
Install the filter. Different types of filters require different installation methods. Check the manufacturer's instructions for the filter you purchased and make sure it is installed properly. If you have an external power filter, set it up on the back of the tank. Your tank lid may have come with a cut-out to make installation easier. Wait until the tank is filled with water before turning it on. If you have an undergravel filter, put the filter plate in first and make sure the tubes are correctly fitted. Don't turn it on until the tank has been filled with water.
Add substrate. Rinse it thoroughly under cool running water (no soap!) to remove all traces of dust, which can clog the filter and cause the water to be cloudy. Pile one to three inches of substrate into the tank. Slope it gently toward the back of the tank. Place a clean plate on top of the gravel and begin pouring water on top of the plate to fill the tank. The plate will prevent you from displacing the substrate as you pour the water. Continue until the tank is one-third full. As you add water, check the tank for leaks. If you see a leak, it's important to repair it before you finish filling and stocking the tank. Remove the plate when you're finished adding water.
Set up your plants and decorations. For live plants, make sure the roots are properly buried beneath the surface of the substrate. Arrange the plants so that the taller plants are in the back of the tank and the shorter plants are near the front. This will give you a better view of your betta. Make sure all decorations are properly anchored in the gravel, so they won't come loose. After you finish filling your tank, it's best not to put your hands in the water again, so make sure you like the positioning of your plants and decorations.
Finish filling the tank and start the filter. Fill the tank within an inch of the top with water, then plug in the filter and turn it on to make sure it works properly. Check to make sure the water is circulating, gently, smoothly and quietly. Adjust the settings if it seems to be moving too powerfully.
Install the heater on the inside of the tank. Most heaters attach to the inside of the tank with suction cups. Position the heater near the mouth of the filter, to ensure that the water gets evenly heated. Plug in the heater and install the thermometer so you can begin monitoring the temperature. Adjust the heater so that the temperature rises to between 78 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If you have a tank light, turn it on to see whether it affects the temperature of the tank. If the light seems to drastically affect the temperature, you'll need to get a better light before you introduce fish to the tank.
Add dechlorinator to the water. Dechlorinator is essential, because it removes chlorine/chloramines and heavy metals from the water. It's necessary to add this if you filled your tank with tap water that contains chlorine. Add the amount of dechlorinator instructed for the amount of water in your tank. If you used bottled spring water, which does not contain chlorine, you may skip this step. You may also want to add a dose of SafeStart, which is a bacterial catalyst that will help promote a healthy environment in the tank.
Cycle the tank without fish. Doing a fishless cycle gives the tank time to build up a beneficial bacteria population for the aquarium nitrogen cycle. If you don't do a fishless cycle, your fish can be killed by high toxin levels in the water, so don't skip this step. See How to Do a Fishless Cyle to learn exactly how to cycle your tank to meet your betta's needs. You will need to use a water testing kit to monitor the water pH, ammonia and nitrate to make sure the levels are safe for your fish. The ideal pH is 7. Ammonia and nitrites should be at 0 and nitrates should be 5-20 ppm before you add fish. You may need to add ammonia remover to bring down the ammonia level.
Introducing Your Betta
Purchase a betta fish. It's best not to actually bring a fish home until your tank is set up, cycled and ready to go. That way you'll be able to help the betta make the transition to its new home as soon as possible. Go to the pet store and choose a new betta to bring home. Remember, every betta needs its own tank; even females. Look for an active, healthy betta with a brightly-colored body and undamaged fins. If a betta seems to be floating aimlessly, it may be sick. Choose a one that swims strongly.
Introduce the fish to the tank. Float the bag or cup in the tank for twenty minutes to an hour. Keep the bag closed and set the bagged betta into the tank so that the water inside the bag comes to the same temperature as the tank water. This will prevent the betta from getting a temperature shock when it enters the tank. After about one hour, it's time to release the fish. Open the bag and let the fish swim freely into the tank. From now on, care for the betta as follows: Feed the betta once or twice a day. Provide a varied diet of high-quality betta pellets, frozen & live foods. Freeze-dried foods are more likely to cause boating and it has little to no nutritional value, it should be used as an occasional bi-weekly treat or rightfully avoided. Do not overfeed, or your betta will become very bloated.
Change the tank water when necessary. If you have a tank that is 5 to 10 gallons (18.9 to 37.9 L), you will need to change out 50% percent of the water every week to maintain a healthy tank. To change the water, Use a gravel vacuum/siphon to suck debris up into a bucket until you have removed the correct amount of water. You do not need to remove your fish from the tank as you clean it. Dump the water out into the sink, bathtub, or shower and fill it up with clean water. Remember to condition it! Pour in the fresh water. Reintroduce your betta to the tank after the water has heated to the correct temperature.
Clean the tank regularly. Your cleaning method will depend on the type and size of your chosen tank. Scrub the sides of the tank and any decorations that have collected waste and debris with an unused toothbrush. Use common sense to determine whether a thorough tank cleaning is needed; if the tank looks filthy, it's time to clean, no matter when you did it last. Monitor the pH, ammonia and nitrate levels as well, and perform partial water changes to lower the levels when necessary.
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