How to Make Spats

Find a shoe that you'd like the pattern to be made for. Drape the cloth pattern over the shoe and use the binding clip to attach it to the top of the shoe. The cloth pattern used should be slightly longer and slightly taller than the shoe.

Use the scotch tape to attach the cloth to the back of the shoe and draw a vertical line indicating where the pattern will end.

Do the same to the front. The seam should run down the middle of the laces. Cut off any excess fabric outside the line, and tape the cloth pattern to the shoe. Run your hands along the fabric to take any bumps out of the pattern and ensure the cloth is tight enough to create a good cover. Decide how low you want to top of the spat to go from the top of the shoe. In this model, the top of the spat will hang slightly lower than the top of the shoe.

Do the same for the bottom of the shoe. Remember that the pattern should follow the organic shape of the shoe.

Decide where you want the buttons to go. Draw another line indicating this. Because the lines drawn on the pattern will likely be shaky and not visible in certain areas, go back through and darken the lines to strengthen the pattern outline.

Trace the pattern directly onto the pattern paper. Cut off the excess cloth and draw the pattern on the paper. Weights can be helpful in keeping the pattern completely still to ensure a steady hand and correctly dimensional pattern.

Cut the same cloth in half and trace the two pieces onto another section of tracing/pattern paper. This will create the other side of the spat. On the parts of the boot where the two segments of leather are sewn together (front and back), a half-inch seam allowance is necessary to create leeway.

Add this half-inch to the pattern paper where the original pattern was traced.

Add an inch and a half to the original pattern to create leeway where the button seam is.

The pattern is ready to be cut out after one final adjustment. The triangle represents the excess seam allowance.

Cut the pattern along the outlines and include the seam allowance.

Fold the pattern along the button and button hole line.

Cut off the excess along the bottom of the seam allowance.

The leather is ready to be traced and cut out based on the patterns. You should have three pieces of the patterns now. Weigh the patterns down on the leather and trace them with a ball-point pen. Because you're creating two different spats for two different feet, make sure you flip the pattern before tracing the pattern for the opposite foot.

Cut the leather using your scissors. You should have three different pieces prepared to sew together. Use a 2.5 to 4 stitch length on your sewing machine. Do not use pins when sewing, because pins create permanent holes in the leather. Instead, just hold the pieces together and feed it through. Sew The back-seam the same way the front-seam was sewn, with a half-inch seam allowance.

All three pieces should now be sewn together.

Take the front seam and back seam (both of which are curved) and make small cuts to make the seam lie flat. This way, when the spat is folded over it looks nice from the front side.

Rub some of the rubber cement onto the corner of the index card. Make a thin layer of rubber cement on both sides of the seam.

Wait until both sides of the seam are sticky and semi-dry then push the sides down using your fingers in the middle of the seam so that it lies flat.

Use a small roller to press the seams down and make sure that the bond is especially strong (optional).

Rub some of the rubber cement along the edges of the spat and then fold it on itself to create a reinforced area for the buttons.

Fold the seam onto itself one inch. Use the roller to press it down and ensure a strong bond. Basic construction is finished and now the buttons are ready to be attached.

Find the center of the seam and make a mark with the pen. Make two additional marks, one to the left of the center and one to the right, about a quarter of an inch from the edge.

Make a button hole. To make a button hole, a simple one can be made with an Xactoknife, or, for a sturdier one, the button hole attachment on the sewing machine can be used. If you use the machine, you'll want to cut them open with a seam ripper.

After making the button holes, poke through the holes with a pen to mark the spot that the button will be attached to. Then sew the buttons on via machine or by hand if you'd prefer.

Attach the buckle as the last step, or a piece of elastic if you'd like. Button up the spat, put it on the shoe, then use the pen to mark the place on the spat that you'd like the button to go. Sew either loose end of the buckle onto the inside of the bottom of the spat. You're done!