How to Care for an Injured Pet Mouse

Taking Action When You See an Injury

Call your vet if you’re unsure about an injury. Infections can spread rapidly due to a mouse’s small size, so it’s better to be safe than sorry anytime you see a cut or wound on your mouse. Always call the vet right away if you suspect potential internal injuries (e.g., the mouse fell from a distance or was stepped on) or broken bones. As prey animals that are hunted by others, mice are good at both concealing themselves and their injuries. So, whether you can see or just suspect an injury, assume it is more serious than the mouse makes it appear.

Take limited measures for minor flesh wounds. If you call your vet and they give you the “all clear” on a minor flesh wound, your main job will likely be to observe it and keep it relatively clean. If instructed to do so, rinse the wound with clean water (from a dropper or bulb syringe) and wipe it with a cotton swab or cotton ball. Apply an antibacterial spray or ointment if directed by your vet. Minor wounds to a mouse’s body usually don’t bleed heavily and heal fairly quickly. To reduce the risk of infection, you may be instructed to clean the mouse’s enclosure more carefully and frequently (e.g., daily instead of weekly). Or, you may even be advised to put the mouse in a separate, extra clean cage, away from its typical companions.

Focus on stopping the bleeding of a major wound. Injuries to the legs, nails, tail, and face tend to bleed more heavily than those to the body. Once you identify the source of a bleeding wound, hold a clean cloth to the wound for 2 minutes. If it’s still bleeding, either reapply pressure for 2 more minutes or apply flour or cornstarch to the bleeding wound. For a wound that is bleeding profusely, try to stanch this bleeding before you call your vet.

Provide pain medication if directed by your vet. Whether you end up visiting the vet or just calling them for guidance, you may be advised to give your mouse pain medication for an injury. In many cases, vets will recommend either ibuprofen or acetaminophen (Tylenol) for pain management. Follow their guidance on dosing and administering the medication. Typically, pet rodents will be given 15-60 mg of ibuprofen per pound of body weight, every 6-12 hours. Ibuprofen can affect blood clotting, though, so your doctor may recommend 90-140 mg/lb of acetaminophen every 6-12 hours instead. You may be advised to give them liquid children’s ibuprofen or acetaminophen with a medication syringe, or to crush up a portion of an adult tablet to mix into yogurt, baby food, or mashed avocado.

Preparing and Watching for Injuries

Create a mouse first aid kit before any injuries occur. Instead of scrambling around looking for supplies and your vet’s number after an injury to your mouse, spend a little time organizing what you’ll need in one place. Put everything in a shoebox, small plastic tote, or—best of all—the small pet carrier you use when taking your mouse to the vet. Include items like: an index card with your vet’s contact info and any relevant medical information for your mouse 1-2 clean towels rubbing alcohol to sterilize tools antibiotic ointment latex gloves to limit bacteria transmission an eye dropper or bulb syringe for rinsing wounds cotton swabs and cotton balls for cleaning wounds fingernail scissors or clippers for trimming hair from wounds or broken nails flour or cornstarch to help stanch bleeding

Familiarize yourself with signs of injury in mice. Gaping wounds and broken limbs can be easy to spot, but your mouse may be able to conceal signs of many injuries. Watch out for physical or behavioral changes like: hiding more than usual not eating and/or drinking limping or not using a limb unusual bumps or lumps on the body labored or loud breathing unexplained weight gain or loss

Look over your mouse daily for signs of injury. Each morning, take a few minutes to simply watch your mouse. Look for any unusual behaviors or physical symptoms that might indicate an injury or illness. Check that the mouse has consumed its normal amount of food and water during the night, and that the amount and texture of its droppings are normal. If something appears obviously wrong, contact your vet. If you’re not convinced something is wrong, check regularly over the next few hours and call the vet if your suspicions remain.

Examine the mouse for injuries weekly. Pick the mouse up gently in your cupped hands, then use your thumbs and fingers to lightly feel for any hidden wounds or abnormal bumps on its body. Praise the mouse in a soothing voice as you work. Consider doing this physical exam each week while you are deep cleaning the mouse’s enclosure. That way, you won’t have to disrupt its normal routine twice.

Preventing Injuries

Pick up mice infrequently and carefully. Most mice don’t particularly enjoy being picked up or held, so limit how often you do so. When you do pick up a mouse, use one of two methods: Grasp it near the base of its tail—never near the end of the tail—with one hand, and support its body with your other hand as you lift the mouse. You can dislocate the tail or even sever the tip of it by lifting from the end of the tail. Cup your hands around the mouse and lift it. If it tries to climb out, loosely cup your hands closed. After 15-30 seconds, most mice will stop trying to escape and will accept being held in your hands this way.

Keep mice in an appropriate and secure enclosure. Mice are skilled escape artists and can squeeze through surprisingly small spaces. For their home, choose either a cage that is made specifically for mice, or an aquarium with a mouse-approved screen lid. If there is a door or gate, make sure it latches securely. A mouse enclosure should be roomy, but not more than about 2 ft (61 cm) high. Mice like to climb, but falling from any more than a small height can cause serious injuries.

Protect mice from other pets and small children. Keep cats, dogs, and other potential predator pets outside the room where your mouse lives. Don’t trust the cage alone to keep your mouse safe. All children under about age 8, and children of any age without experience with pet mice, should be supervised closely. They’re more likely to injure a mouse by unintentionally squeezing it, dropping it, or stepping on it.

Don’t keep multiple males in a single enclosure. Mice are social creatures that prefer company, but males kept together will usually end up fighting and possibly injuring each other. It’s best to keep 2 or more females together, or a neutered male with 1 or more females. If you put a male that isn’t neutered in with 1 or more females, expect to have a lot of baby mice to take care of soon after!